The Beautiful Thing
The beautiful thing about winetasting in South Australia is that, despite the close proximity of its wine regions to each other, their diverse climates, landscapes, and terroir become abundantly clear to first-time visitors. Barossa is quite warm, with mild nighttime temperatures; shiraz reigns supreme, but varieties such as sangiovese also thrive in the valley. Only an hour’s drive away, the Adelaide Hills’ higher elevation, increased rain, and cooler daytime temps produce pinot noir and chardonnay that rival Burgundy’s. Seaside McLaren Vale is reminiscent of the South of France or Sicily, with vivid examples of grenache and chenin blanc, while hot, inland Riverland sees vermentino and fiano flourish. The individuality of South Australia’s wine regions makes it one of the most exciting places in the whole world for wine right now. Too often, the eastern states get all the holiday glory. But in South Australia we’re spoiled for choice with beaches, which are largely untouched and not overdeveloped like those in some of the country’s better known destinations. I was born and grew up in South Australia and moved back to Adelaide a few years ago. It’s much smaller than Melbourne and Sydney and runs at a slower pace, yet the city has evolved a lot in the past five years, during which many of its vacant laneways have been transformed with tiny wine bars and eateries showcasing small-scale, local winemakers and producers in a lively atmosphere.
The city and vineyards are most beautiful in spring and early summer. The Adelaide Hills are especially picturesque, with quintessential South Australian scenery you won’t get anywhere else and true finds such as The Summertown Aristologist, my favourite regional restaurant, a half-hour drive from the city centre. It reminds me of a little restaurant and wine bar that you’d happen upon in France, with shared plates of locally grown produce, homemade bread, saucisson, and more. Nearby, homely and welcoming CRFT Wines has the perfect cellar door down a driveway through the vines. The winemakers’ dogs are often roaming around; if it’s warm, you can sit on the deck and have a flight while watching the horses graze. Most of the wineries in South Australia are independent, family-owned businesses – there’s less extravagance and glamour than you’ll find in places like Champagne and Napa, and more of a connection to the grape growers. I’m particularly attracted to our more progressive, younger generation of winemakers. Because we have few, if any, rules around what varieties need to be planted where or which blends must be adhered to for specific styles, two winemakers working plots of land next to each other can produce strikingly different and delicious wines.
Tip:
“When visiting Adelaide, don’t miss a drink or meal on 2KW’s rooftop, with gorgeous views of the city. Should you want something cosier and more intimate, tapas at Paloma Bar and Pantry are a must.”
Toast of the Town
How to explore South Australia, plus bars and restaurants to put on your list
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Swain Destinations peppers its South Australia journey with activities such as a breakfast picnic with kangaroos, bushwalks and mountain biking on a 24,000-hectare Flinders Ranges sheep station, and three nights on Kangaroo Island. The 11-day private trip kicks off with a guided walking tour of Adelaide’s Central Market and features two days of winetasting in the Barossa and Clare valleys with accommodations at a boutique vineyard estate. Departures: Any day, beginning 1 April, 2021.
On-site tour operator Southern World works with Virtuoso travel advisors to put together a nineday exploration of South Australia, beginning with three nights in Adelaide for wine touring and shopping at the Adelaide Central Market. Three nights on Kangaroo Island bring another winery visit as well as an outing to a remote south coast seal colony and a four-wheel-drive tour. The trip wraps up at a sheep station in the Flinders Ranges. Departures: Any day through 2021.
EAT & DRINK
Head to Adelaide’s La Buvette for a strong selection of South Australian natural wines and French bites and aperitifs. 27 Gresham Street; labuvettedrinkery. com.au.
One of the first laneway bars that have been popping up across the city, Clever Little Tailor draws a loyal crowd for its cosy vibe with craft beers, a solid whiskey lineup, and a rotating local wine list. 19 Peel Street; cleverlittletailor. com.au.
Also in the city centre, Madre serves rarely seen traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas, made with seawater and sourdough starter (rather than a fresh yeast) for a lighter and more flavourful dough. 57 Gilbert Street; madre-adl.com.
Central Adelaide’s Osteria Oggi pairs wines with its daily menu of fresh house-made pastas and wood-smoked meats and seafood. 76 Pirie Street; osteriaoggi.com.au.
Open for dinner on Fridays and lunch and dinner Saturdays and Sundays, The Summertown Aristologist, 30 minutes outside the city in Adelaide Hills, specialises in a farm-driven menu and organic, natural local wines. 1097 Greenhill Road, Summertown; thesummertownaristologist.com.
Article and images from Virtuoso Life Magazine September | October 2020
