Streaky Bay, South Australia

Murphy’s Haystack

Murphy’s Haystack

Located on the western side of Eyre Peninsula - nearly 300 kms northwest of Port Lincoln (and 700 kms from Adelaide), Streaky Bay is a convenient base from which to explore this spectacular part of the Great Australian Bight, and its hinterland dominated by pastoral activity.  The town (formerly known as Flinders) has a population less than 1,500, and lies on an enclosed inlet (called Augusta Harbour, or Blanche Port) at the southern end of the bay.   

While it has a casual Mediterranean ambience, the real attraction around the town is its variety of landscapes, and particularly the superb coastal scenery.  There are rugged cliffs, pristine white sandy beaches, picturesque geological wonders formed by nature, brilliant fishing, even sea lions lazing in the sun below Point Labatt.  Where the coastline is exposed to the Southern Ocean swells, the cliffs are spectacular, complimented by occasional sheltered areas that host large rockpools.  The scenery along this section of the Bight shows Mother Nature at her finest!

DISCOVERING AN ISOLATED PART OF THE CONTINENT  

In Matthew Flinders' circumnavigation of Australia in 1802, he explored and mapped the coast of Eyre Peninsula for the British monarchy, naming prominent landmarks, bays and harbours as he went.  He named Streaky Bay because of the 'streaky' discolouration of the water, most likely caused by the release of oils from certain species of seaweed.  

In 1840, Edward John Eyre traversed the Peninsula on an overland expedition.  His journey is remembered via heritage-registered Eyre's Waterhole, 3 kms out of Streaky Bay.  Pastoralists moved into the area from the 1850s, and wheat-growers followed several decades later - wheat and wool were exported by ship from Streaky Bay.

STREAKY BAY TOWN 

The Streaky Bay Hotel and town jetty provide lovely views across the bay, especially at sunset time.  Birdlife is abundant, and the sunsets are a photographer's dream.  The jetty is a symbol for the local fishing community, and a reminder of the town's historic importance as a port for hinterland grains.  Local seafood is fantastic!  King George whiting is the most sought-after fish, and squid can be caught from just about anywhere.  Dolphins are often seen in the calm waters of the bay.  Pelicans walk the foreshore, eager for the cast-offs from the fishermen's catch. 

A 3-km (approx) historic walk around 28 different places of interest in town, starts at the Visitors Centre (the old Masonic Hall dating from 1926) and includes the National Trust Museum, a number of significant private homes, memorials and public buildings.  A map is available from the Visitors Centre. 

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 A typical rural folk museum, the National Trust Museum presents interesting memorabilia from the local region, including a restored pioneer cottage in the grounds.  There are over 400 restored engines (all in working order) at the Powerhouse Museum.  Balfour House is now an impressive private residence - in the 1880s, it was a private hospital run by Irish nurses,.  At the Shell Roadhouse on Alfred Terrace, there's a replica of the world-record Great White Shark, among other displays of marine life in the area.  The original Great White Shark was a 'real-life Jaws' - caught by fishing line 22 kms from Streaky Bay in 1990, more than 5-metres long, weighing 1,520 kgs.  

 Built in 1866, the Community Hotel started as the Flinders Hotel - it's now an excellent cafe.  In the median strip near the hotel is a monument to the Dutch navigator Pieter Nuyts, who in 1627 was probably the first European to sail across the Great Australian Bight, and first to sight the Streaky Bay area.  He reached the islands just off the coast - now known as Nuyts Archipelago.  Apparently Jonathan Swift, hearing of Nuyts' discovery, used the islands as a model for his fictional islands of Lilliput and Biefescu in Gulliver's Travels.

 

SCENIC DRIVES ALONG THE SPECTACULAR COASTLINE 

There are several scenic drives and walks around the Streaky Bay area.  Most significant is the Point Labatt Sea Lion Drive.  The 60-metre-high cliffs at Point Labatt are really impressive!  Fifty kilometres south of Streaky Bay, they are home to the only accessible mainland breeding colony of endangered Australian sea lions.  They can be seen frolicking in the waters, or sunbaking on the rocks - sometimes you also see the pups feeding and playing.  The sea lion colony varies in size, generally it numbers about 50 - but, don't expect to get up-close to them.  They're on the rocky sea platform below the cliffs.  

 The rocky edge of the shoreline at the cliffs is also home to both NZ and Australian fur seals.  While species such as the NZ fur seal have steadily recovered in number, the Australian sea lion remains one of the most endangered marine mammals on the planet.  The cliffs are also nesting sites for eastern osprey, white-bellied sea eagles and peregrine falcons, while the surrounding waters provide fish, squid, octopus, crabs and crayfish.  Between June and October, Point Labatt doubles as an excellent whale-watching platform.



COASTAL ATTRACTIONS & HISTORY TO THE NORTH

The Cape Bauer scenic drive (about 36 kms) is to the northern end of Corvisart Bay, offering magnificent views and photo opportunities of the exposed coastline including the Razorbacks, the Blowholes and Halley's Beach.  The Blowholes (and Whistling Rocks) have an excellent 360-metre boardwalk and viewing platform - but, of course, these are best seen at high tide, and preferably on a wild-weather day.  As the swells roll in from the Great Australian Bight, and break on the rocks, air is forced upwards with a roar.  The bigger the wave, the louder the sound.  Surf fishing is particularly popular at Hally's Beach.  Sea eagles and osprey nest on the islands, cliffs and sea-stacks along the peninsula coastline.

 Pertubie Beach lies about 20 kms north of Streaky Bay.  Locally, it became quite famous for its rather unique annual New Year sports day, which first started in 1914.  Originally it was a 1,600-metre horse race run on the beach at low tide.  Today, it has evolved into a more family-friendly day, with a 1,600-metre foot-race along the beach, a swimming competition, tug-o-wars, etc.

Smokey Bay, 73 kms north was a port for local grain farmers.  Before the town's jetty was built (1912), the harvested wheat crop was taken out through the shallow waters to waiting clipper ships, in boats pulled by horses.  A 381-metre-long jetty was subsequently built.  By the 1950s, most of the wheat was being shipped through the better-equipped port of Thevenard, and the jetty was subsequently reduced by 88 metres.

A UNIQUE GEOLOGICAL ATTRACTION 

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About 40 kms south of Streaky Bay (just off the Flinders Highway) is the most famous of the natural attractions, Murphy's Haystacks.  They are a series of dramatically weathered granite outcrops, curvaceously shaped by erosion - formations like these are known to geologists as 'inselbergs'.  

Composed of pink granite, they were weathered and sculptured into their current form about 1,000 million years ago.  Sitting in an otherwise featureless pasture, they look like they were just dropped onto the landscape - which adds to their mystery.  A well-defined circular walking track leads around the most impressive haystacks, and into a small woodland where the haystacks are surrounded by eucalypts.

DIVERSE ECONOMIC ACTIVITY 

The local economy is strongly dependent on agriculture, with an emphasis on wheat, barley and other cereals, as well as sheep.  Commercial fishing is very significant - primarily for snapper and King George whiting.  Aquaculture of oysters and abalone has thrived.  Recent diversification has seen the successful farming of olives, and alternate breeds of goats and sheep.

The 3-part TV movie 'Blue Fin' starring Hardy Kruger was shot in Streaky Bay in 1978.  It was an unofficial follow-up to the famous 'Storm Boy', a family film about Blue Fin tuna fishing off Eyre Peninsula.   

At Streaky Bay, you can walk, swim, cycle and snorkel to your heart's content, explore quite amazing scenery and geological formations, and taste delicious seafood.  Renaissance Air fly three times a week from Adelaide to the Streaky Bay airport, which is 10 kms east of the town.

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If you would like to visit Streaky Bay or combine it with a trip to South Australia, please contact us today on 1800 672 988.

 

All images on this blog page are courtesy of Tourism Western Australia.

Copyright 2021 Travel Masters and The Travel Studio

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